Velika Zelnarica - the fairy-tale ski tour down the Za Kopico valley

From the parking lot at planina Blato (1,147 m) we go back a few steps to the TNP info boards and the branch of the wide and comfortable path towards Planina pri Jezeru. The path is easy to follow even in snow and in a good hour we reach the mountain hut on the pasture (1,453 m).

From the hut we briefly descend to the huts on the left side of the lake, where the valley begins, which leads us without major navigational difficulties to the next pasture Dedno polje (1,560 m). We reach it in half an hour.

Above the pasture on the ridge on the horizon we see the overhanging tower of Kopica, which will be our unmistakable guide along the route. We bypass the huts on the left, eastern side and continue through larches upslope towards the saddle between Kovačičeva glava and Kreda, above which we saw Kopica.

From the saddle we continue around Kovačičeva glava on the left side of the hollow where Planina ŠÄavje lies and ascend to the next saddle that separates Kovačičeva glava from the main slope.

We continue towards the next abandoned pasture Bošinka. We need to descend a few meters, but very soon we find a passage to the right across an indistinct ridge into a wide and open gully along which we continue further right upwards all the way to the beginning of our valley Za Kopico. The passage to the upper floor across the indistinct, slightly steeper break requires a bit more navigational attention.

When behind us opens a view of the Bohinj-Tolmin mountains and above us we again see the overhanging wall of Kopica, we can no longer miss the way. We continue through the valley, which rises evenly and in a gentle arc towards the north all the way to the top of the pass Vrata (2,192 m).

From Vrata we continue another short half hour on a steeper upper slope to the summit of Velika Zelnarica (2,310 m). At the top we must be careful of cornices and the edge of the cliff, which falls on the opposite side.

We ski back in the same direction, the slopes are clear and we easily find the best passages.

Standard winter equipment: avalanche set (avalanche transceiver, avalanche probe, shovel), touring skis, bindings, boots, helmet; skins, crampons; ice axe.

The Za Kopico ski tour is among the safer ones. Of course, in poor snow conditions some slopes - mainly in the upper final part of the valley - can be avalanche-prone. The upper ridge of Velika Zelnarica is exposed - on the side of the Valley of the Triglav Lakes it drops steeply - so we must be very careful of the cliff edge and cornices.

From the direction of the Jesenice – Ljubljana highway: exit Bled and continue to Bohinj Lake. There turn into Stara Fužina and proceed through the village to the forest road leading to planina Blato. The road usually requires a toll.

From the Primorska side: through Baška grapa and over Soriška planina to Bohinj Lake; then continue as above.

From Ljubljana to Bohinj there is a bus every hour (from 5:15 to 21:00: https://www.ap-ljubljana.si/avtobus/Ljubljana-do-Bohinjsko%20jezero ). The first bus arrives at Bohinj Lake at 6:45. If the road to Blato is passable (usually from late March onward) we can order a local transporter from the lake to planina Blato, who will also pick us up after the tour.

However, it is better and safer to be at the starting parking lot significantly earlier!

Parking lot at planina Blato (1,147 m). The 7.5 km long asphalt forest road from Stara Fužina leads to the pasture. It is not maintained in winter but the snow usually melts by the most ski-friendly spring months. There is a barrier at the start of the road; the traffic regime is not fully settled yet, so check beforehand whether the barrier is open or not.

The described ski tour, when returning along the ascent route, is only one of the possible variants. From the summit of Velika Zelnarica we can also ski across the slopes between Velika and Mala Zelnarica; or at the Vrata pass we can head to the summit of Zadnji Vogel on the opposite side and ski from there into the heart of the Za Kopico valley. All options are excellent.

The Za Kopico ski tour is technically easier, but quite demanding in length, so especially in springtime we should start early enough to catch the best ski conditions.