From Croix de Culet via the Col de Cou to Champéry

High above the Val d’Illiez runs the border to France. The lowest border crossing is the Col de Cou at 1921 m above sea level, which was known until the 1950s as a smuggler route for sugar, butter, tobacco, and watches. During the Second World War, locals together with resistance fighters helped refugees cross the border.

The views along this hike high up to the pass are as dramatic as the history of the region. At the beginning of the hike, take the gondola from Champéry to the Croix de Culet mountain station, the starting point of the hike. The viewing terrace of the mountain restaurant reveals an impressive view of the Dents du Midi.

The path makes a wide loop westwards and passes some alpine pastures. At the Alp Le Lapisa, the daily produced mountain cheese can be tasted. In autumn, sausages are also made here – all local products are sold directly in the mountain restaurant.

After a short descent follows the ascent to the windy Col de Cou. The view of the mountains on both sides is breathtaking, but the spectacle is also in the air: migratory birds display their impressive formations reminiscent of ballet. The Swiss Bird Observatory Sempach conducts long-term studies on migratory bird behavior at the nearby Col de Bretolet. Volunteers here ring 10,000 to 20,000 birds from about a hundred species every year.

From Col de Cou, the route leads eastwards over the Berroi ridge, probably one of the most exciting paths in the entire region. Then the path descends to the idyllic plateau of Barme – where a sleepy alpine hut testifies to the smuggler past. Finally, the descent back to Grand Paradis and Champéry follows.

Highlights of the hike