Luknja (1758 m) – Below the mighty northern wall of Triglav
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Luknja is a somewhat unattractive name for a deeply carved notch between Triglav on one side and Bovški Gamsovec on the other. Luknja is an important junction of paths and a pass for crossing from the...
Luknja is a somewhat unattractive name for a deeply carved notch between Triglav on one side and Bovški Gamsovec on the other. Luknja is an important junction of paths and a pass for crossing from the Upper Carniola Vrata Valley to the Primorska Zadnjica and Trenta on the other side. Paths lead through Luknja to DoliÄ and Bovški Gamsovec; on Luknja starts the most demanding and the most attractive path to Triglav – the Bamberg path over Plemenice. In winter and spring, Luknja is a popular skiing destination since the long and vast scree fields below the walls allow relaxed and smooth skiing.
The dominant backdrop of the ski touring from Luknja is the northern Triglav Wall. This mighty edifice belongs to the elite collection of the highest walls in the European Alps, being over a thousand meters high and more than three kilometers wide. Climbers therefore call it simply the Wall with a capital letter; every one of them knows which wall is the Wall. In winter, it is completely frozen in ice and snow, making it particularly interesting. Avalanches falling over the overhangs can often be observed. After heavier snowfalls, approaching the base of the wall is deadly dangerous.
The tour can also be undertaken in serious winter, but one must consider the 9 km long road from Mojstrana to Aljaž Lodge in the Vrata Valley, which is unplowed and closed to traffic in winter. The snow on the road usually melts between late March and mid-April, allowing access to the parking lot in front of the mountain lodge, where our tour begins.
Orientation on this tour is simple. At first, if the signs are visible, we follow them toward Triglav and Luknja; if not, we advance along the bottom of the valley toward the entrance to the central part of the Triglav Wall. When we come out of the forest, we follow the upper edge of the tree line to the right upward below the western part of the Triglav Wall and further across the snowy scree fields to Luknja.
We ski back in the direction of the ascent.

We leave the car at a parking lot a few minutes away from the Aljaž Lodge in the Vrata Valley (1015 m). Past the lodge, we continue to the striking monument to the fallen partisan mountaineers and further along the valley. If the signs are visible, we follow the indications for paths to Luknja and to Triglav via Prag; otherwise, we follow a well-visible line of the path along the bottom of the valley.
When we come out of the forest, the Triglav Wall fully opens in front of us, and we have a view of the continuation of the valley all the way to Luknja. We continue over the snowfields constantly along the upper edge of the tree line. Below the Jug pillar, at the only place where the tongue of trees from the forest touches the wall, it is wise, especially on the return, to look for a sufficiently high pass, which makes continuing the path or skiing easier. The continuation is simple and unmistakable.
The last 50 m before Luknja (1758 m) is the steepest on the entire tour. If the snow is hard, we will overcome it more easily and safely with crampons and skis on the backpack.
We ski in the direction of the ascent. In the spring months, it makes sense not to turn too quickly toward the valley but to extend the traverse under the wall to the approach of the central part and take advantage of the avalanche paths that prolong the skiing.
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Typical winter equipment: avalanche safety trio (avalanche beacon, avalanche probe, shovel), touring skis, bindings, boots; ski skins; crampons, ice axe.
Below the Triglav Wall, there are several places highly exposed to avalanches; therefore, tours can only be attempted in stable snow conditions.
From the main Jesenice – Kranjska Gora road, we turn into the village of Mojstrana. Through the settlement, we continue into the Vrata Valley up to the parking lot in front of the Aljaž Lodge.
There is no public transport to the Vrata Valley during the ski season, but buses run hourly on the route Kranjska Gora Ljubljana to the starting village Mojstrana (https://www.ap-ljubljana.si/avtobus/Ljubljana-do-Kranjska%20Gora)
We park at the marked parking lot in front of the Aljaž Lodge; further on, the road is closed by a barrier.
Before setting off on the tour, check if the road to the Vrata Valley is passable.
If time allows, we strongly recommend at least two stops: viewing the elegant PeriÄnik waterfall in the lower part of the valley and visiting the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana: https://www.planinskimuzej.si/
The tour can be extended by about 350 vertical meters below the ridge of the Bovški Gamsovec, but this undertaking can only be attempted in very favorable snow conditions. The initial steepness from Luknja is steep and exposed; on hard snow, it is dangerous for slips; on fresh snow or during thaws, it is highly exposed to avalanches.
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